Pasta All'Amatriciana

 

Look for salt pork that is roughly 70 percent fat and 30 percent lean meat; leaner salt pork may not render enough fat. If it is difficult to slice, put the salt pork in the freezer for 15 minutes to firm up. Use high-quality imported Pecorino Romano—not the bland domestic cheese labeled “Romano.”

Ingredients

• 8ounces salt pork, rind removed, rinsed thoroughly, and patted dry
• 1/2cup water
• 1/2teaspoon red pepper flakes
• 2tablespoons tomato paste
• 1/4cup red wine
• 1(28-ounce) can diced tomatoes
• 2ounces Pecorino Romano, finely grated (1 cup)
• 1pound spaghetti
• 1tablespoon salt

Instructions

• 1. Slice pork into ¼-inch-thick strips, then cut each strip crosswise into ¼-inch pieces. Bring pork and water to simmer in 10-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat; cook until water evaporates and pork begins to sizzle, 5 to 8 minutes. Reduce heat to medium-low and continue to cook, stirring frequently, until fat renders and pork turns golden, 5 to 8 minutes longer. Using slotted spoon, transfer pork to bowl. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon fat from skillet. Reserve remaining fat.
• 2. Return skillet to medium heat and add pepper flakes and tomato paste; cook, stirring constantly, for 20 seconds. Stir in wine and cook for 30 seconds. Stir in tomatoes and their juice and rendered pork and bring to simmer. Cook, stirring frequently, until thickened, 12 to 16 minutes. While sauce simmers, smear 2 tablespoons reserved fat and ½ cup Pecorino Romano together in bowl to form paste.
• 3. Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to boil in large Dutch oven. Add spaghetti and salt and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Reserve 1 cup cooking water, then drain spaghetti and return it to pot.
• 4. Add sauce, 1/3 cup cooking water, and Pecorino Romano–fat mixture to pasta and toss well to coat, adjusting consistency with remaining cooking water as needed. Serve, passing remaining 1/2 cup Pecorino Romano separately.

Technique

• Pork versus Pork

  Guanciale, which is made by salting and drying hog jowls, is the traditional choice for this dish due to its intense pure-pork flavor. Looking for something equally porky but more readily available, we turn to salt pork, which is also salt-cured but is made from the belly.
  
• GUANCIALE: Salted jowl.
  
• SALT PORK: Salted belly.
  

Spaghetti with Mushroom and Tomato Sauce (Quick Mushroom Ragu)

Use a spoon to scrape the dark brown gills from the portobellos.

Ingredients

• 1ounce dried porcini mushrooms, rinsed well
• 1cup low-sodium chicken broth
• 4ounces pancetta, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 1/2pound portobello mushrooms (2 large), stems and gills removed and discarded, caps cut into 1/2-inch pieces (about 1 1/2 cups) (see note)
• 3tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 4 medium garlic cloves, peeled and sliced thin
• 1tablespoon tomato paste
• 2teaspoons minced fresh rosemary leaves
• 1(14.5-ounce) can whole tomatoes, roughly crushed by hand
•   Table salt and ground black pepper
• 1pound spaghetti
•   Grated Pecorino Romano, for serving

Instructions

• 1. Place porcini and broth in small microwave-safe bowl; cover with plastic wrap and cut several steam vents in plastic with paring knife. Microwave on high power 1 minute, until broth is steaming. Let stand until mushrooms soften, about 10 minutes. Lift mushrooms from broth with fork and finely chop. Strain broth through fine-mesh strainer lined with large coffee filter into medium bowl. Set aside mushrooms and broth.
• 2. Heat pancetta in 12-inch skillet over medium heat; cook, stirring occasionally, until rendered and crisp, 7 to 10 minutes. Add portobellos, chopped porcini, olive oil, garlic, tomato paste, and rosemary; cook, stirring occasionally, until all liquid has evaporated and tomato paste starts to brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Add reserved chicken broth, crushed tomatoes, and their juices; increase heat to high and bring to simmer. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until thickened, 15 to 20 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
• 3. While sauce simmers, bring 4 quarts water to boil in large Dutch oven. Add 1 tablespoon salt and pasta; cook until al dente. Drain pasta, reserving ½ cup cooking water, and return to pot. Add sauce to pasta and toss to combine. Adjust consistency with reserved pasta water and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve, passing Pecorino separately.

Skillet Chicken Fajitas

 

We like to serve these fajitas with crumbled queso fresco or feta in addition to the other garnishes listed.

Ingredients

Chicken

• 1/4cup vegetable oil
• 2tablespoons lime juice
• 4 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed
• 1 1/2teaspoons smoked paprika
• 1teaspoon sugar
• 1teaspoon salt
• 1/2teaspoon ground cumin
• 1/2teaspoon pepper
• 1/4teaspoon cayenne pepper
• 1 1/2pounds boneless, skinless chicken breasts, trimmed and pounded to 1/2-inch thickness

Rajas con Crema

• 1pound (3 to 4) poblano chiles, stemmed, halved, and seeded
• 1tablespoon vegetable oil
• 1 onion, halved and sliced 1/4 inch thick
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 1/4teaspoon dried thyme
• 1/4teaspoon dried oregano
• 1/2cup heavy cream
• 1tablespoon lime juice
• 1/2teaspoon salt
• 1/4teaspoon pepper

• 8 - 12(6-inch) flour tortillas, warmed
• 1/4cup minced fresh cilantro
•   Spicy Pickled Radishes (see related content)
•   Lime wedges

Instructions

• 1. FOR THE CHICKEN: Whisk 3 tablespoons oil, lime juice, garlic, paprika, sugar, salt, cumin, pepper, and cayenne together in bowl. Add chicken and toss to coat. Cover and let stand at room temperature for at least 30 minutes or up to 60 minutes.
• 2. FOR THE RAJAS CON CREMA: Mean­while, adjust oven rack to highest position and heat broiler. Arrange poblanos, skin side up, on aluminum foil–lined rimmed baking sheet and press to flatten. Broil until skin is charred and puffed, 4 to 10 minutes, rotating baking sheet halfway through cooking. Transfer poblanos to bowl, cover, and let steam for 10 minutes. Rub majority of skin from poblanos and discard (preserve some skin for flavor); slice into 1/4-inch-thick strips. Adjust oven racks to middle and lowest positions and heat oven to 200 degrees.
• 3. Heat oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over high heat until just smoking. Add onion and cook until charred and just softened, about 3 minutes. Add garlic, thyme, and oregano and cook until fragrant, about 15 seconds. Add cream and cook, stirring frequently, until reduced and cream lightly coats onion, 1 to 2 minutes. Add poblano strips, lime juice, salt, and pepper and toss to coat. Transfer vegetables to bowl, cover, and place on middle oven rack. Wipe out skillet with paper towels.
• 4. Remove chicken from marinade and wipe off excess. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in now-empty skillet over high heat until just smoking. Add chicken and cook without moving it until bottom side is well charred, about 4 minutes. Flip chicken; transfer skillet to lower oven rack. Bake until chicken registers 160 degrees, 7 to 10 minutes. Transfer to cutting board and let rest for 5 minutes; do not wash out skillet.
• 5. Slice chicken crosswise into 1/4-inch-thick strips. Return chicken strips to skillet and toss to coat with pan juices. To serve, spoon few pieces of chicken into center of warmed tortilla and top with spoonful of vegetable mixture, cilantro, and Spicy Pickled Radishes. Serve with lime wedges.

Technique

• Pepping Up Fajitas with Poblanos

  THE PEPPER TO PICK:
  Forget the ho-hum grilled bell peppers and onions typically served with fajitas. Here, we take a cue from mexican cuisine, charbroiling strips of fruity, complex-tasting poblano chiles and then simmering them with onions, cream, and lime juice. The tangy concoction, called rajas con crema, provides a rich counterpoint to the lean chicken.
  
• 

Technique

• Overcoming the Pitfalls of Lean White Meat

  We like the convenience of boneless, skinless chicken breasts, but their lack of fat and flavor is a hazard. Here's how we achieve meat that is well charred, juicy, and meaty tasting.
  
• SEAR ON ONE SIDE: Cook marinated breasts over high heat without moving until thoroughly charred.
  
• TRANSFER TO OVEN: Flip breasts and finish in a gentle 200-degree oven, which ensures the breasts won't overcook.
  
• TOSS IN PAN JUICES: After resting chicken, slice and return to skillet. Toss in flavorful juices before serving.
  

Cranberry Chutney with Apple and Crystallized Ginger

 

Makes about 3 cups

If using frozen cranberries, thaw them before cooking.

Ingredients

• 1teaspoon vegetable oil
• 1 shallot, minced
• 2teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger
• 1/2teaspoon salt
• 2/3cup water
• 1/4cup cider vinegar
• 1cup packed brown sugar
• 12ounces (3 cups) fresh or frozen cranberries
• 2 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored, and cut into 1/4-inch pieces
• 1/3cup minced crystalized ginger

Instructions

• 1. Heat oil in medium saucepan over medium heat until just shimmering. Add shallot, fresh ginger, and salt; cook, stirring occasionally, until shallot has softened, 1 to 2 minutes.
• 2. Add water, vinegar, and sugar. Increase heat to high and bring to simmer, stirring to dissolve sugar. Add 1½ cups cranberries and apples; return to simmer. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring occasionally, until cranberries have almost completely broken down and mixture has thickened, about 15 minutes.
• 3. Add remaining 1½ cups cranberries and crystallized ginger; continue to simmer, stirring occasionally, until just beginning to burst, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer to serving bowl and cool for at least 1 hour before serving. (Sauce can be refrigerated for up to 3 days.)

Simple Grill-Roasted Turkey

 

Don’t use table salt for this recipe; it is too fine. If using a self-basting turkey (such as a frozen Butterball) or a kosher turkey, don’t salt in step 1, but do season with salt in step 2. Check the wings halfway through roasting; if they are getting too dark, slide a small piece of foil between the wing and the cooking grate to shield the wings from the flame. 

Ingredients

• 1(12- to 14-pound) turkey, neck and giblets removed and reserved for gravy
•   Kosher salt and pepper
• 1teaspoon baking powder
• 1tablespoon vegetable oil
•   Large Disposable aluminum roasting pan (if using charcoal) or 2 disposable aluminum pie plates (if using gas)

Instructions

• 1. Place turkey, breast side down, on work surface. Make two 2-inch incisions below each thigh and breast along back of turkey (4 incisions total). Using fingers or handle of wooden spoon, carefully separate skin from thighs and breast. Rub 4 teaspoons salt evenly inside cavity of turkey, 1 tablespoon salt under skin of each breast, and 1 teaspoon salt under skin of each leg.
• 2. Combine 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon pepper, and baking powder in small bowl. Pat turkey dry with paper towels and evenly sprinkle baking powder mixture all over. Rub in mixture with hands, coating entire surface evenly. Wrap turkey tightly with plastic wrap; refrigerate for 24 to 48 hours.
• 3. Remove turkey from refrigerator and discard plastic. Tuck wings underneath turkey. Using hands, rub oil evenly over entire surface.
• 4A. FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL: Open bottom vent halfway and place disposable pan filled with 3 cups water in center of grill. Arrange 1 1/2 quarts unlit charcoal briquettes on either side of pan (3 quarts total) in even layer. Light large chimney starter two-thirds filled with charcoal briquettes (4 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour 2 quarts of lit coals on top of each pile of unlit coals. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent halfway. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
• 4B. FOR A GAS GRILL: Place 2 disposable pie plates with 2 cups water in each directly on 1 burner over which turkey will be cooked. Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Turn primary burner (burner opposite pie plates) to medium and turn off other burner(s). Adjust primary burner as needed to maintain grill temperature of 325 degrees.
• 5. Clean and oil cooking grate. Place turkey, breast side up, in center of charcoal grill or on cooler side of gas grill, making sure bird is over disposable pans and not over flame. Cover (placing vents over turkey on charcoal grill) and cook until breasts register 160 degrees and thighs/drumsticks register 175 degrees, 2 1/2 to 3 hours, rotating turkey after 1 1/4 hours if using gas grill.
• 6. Transfer turkey to carving board and let rest, uncovered, for 45 minutes. Carve turkey and serve.

Technique

• Cleaning a Grimy Grill Lid

  We’re fanatics about making sure that we thoroughly clean our grill grates before grilling, but we often forget to give the same attention to the grill lid. Over time, grease and smoke oxidize and turn into carbon that builds up under the lid and eventually becomes patchy flakes that look like peeling paint. 
  
  To see if this carbon buildup imparts any ashy off-flavors to food, we took the filthiest lid we could find in the test kitchen and used it to grill-roast turkey and fish, comparing the results after following the same recipes on a new grill with a shiny clean lid. Most of us didn’t detect any off-flavors, but we do recommend cleaning the inside of the grill lid on a regular basis to prevent the strips from flaking off and landing on your food. The peeling carbon comes off easily with light scrubbing with steel wool and water. (Don’t waste your time trying to clean off any buildup that isn’t already flaking. 
  
  When we attempted to remove every speck of the shiny carbon layer, none of the methods we tried—lemon juice and salt; vinegar and baking soda; S.O.S pads; or even spraying the surface with Easy-Off, sealing the lid in a plastic garbage bag, and letting it sit in the sun for several hours—made much of a dent.)
  
• NEEDS A SCRUB: That's not peeling paint: It's carbon buildup.
  

Home Fries

 

Don’t skip the baking soda in this recipe. It’s critical for home fries with just the right crisp texture.

Ingredients

• 3 1/2pounds russet potatoes, peeled and cut into ¾-inch dice
• 1/2teaspoon baking soda
• 3tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 12 pieces
•   Kosher salt and pepper
•  Pinch cayenne pepper
• 3tablespoons vegetable oil
• 2 onions, cut into ½-inch dice
• 3tablespoons minced fresh chives

Instructions

• 1. Adjust oven rack to lowest position, place rimmed baking sheet on rack, and heat oven to 500 degrees.
• 2. Bring 10 cups water to boil in Dutch oven over high heat. Add potatoes and baking soda. Return to boil and cook for 1 minute. Drain potatoes. Return potatoes to Dutch oven and place over low heat. Cook, shaking pot occasionally, until any surface moisture has evaporated, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat. Add butter, 1½ teaspoons salt, and cayenne; mix with rubber spatula until potatoes are coated with thick, starchy paste, about 30 seconds.
• 3. Remove baking sheet from oven and drizzle with 2 tablespoons oil. Transfer potatoes to baking sheet and spread into even layer. Roast for 15 minutes. While potatoes roast, combine onions, remaining 1 tablespoon oil, and ½ teaspoon salt in bowl.
• 4. Remove baking sheet from oven. Using thin, sharp metal spatula, scrape and turn potatoes. Clear about 8 by 5-inch space in center of baking sheet and add onion mixture. Roast for 15 minutes.
• 5. Scrape and turn again, mixing onions into potatoes. Continue to roast until potatoes are well browned and onions are softened and beginning to brown, 5 to 10 minutes. Stir in chives and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve immediately.

Technique

• How Mushy Boiled Potatoes Lead To Crisp Home Fries

  USE RUSSETS
  We like the earthy flavor that russets bring to home fries, plus their high starch content helps create a substantial golden-brown crust.
  
  
• PARBOIL
  Adding potatoes to boiling (not cold) water cooks them more on the outside than on the inside—just the uneven effect we want.
  
  
• ADD BAKING SODA
  Baking soda accentuates the uneven cooking by quickly breaking down the exteriors, leaving the insides nearly raw.
  
  
• TOSS WITH SALT
  Salt roughs up the drained potatoes, so their moisture evaporates more readily, leading to better crisping in the oven.
  
  
• ROAST
  Pretreated potatoes achieve a “fried” texture after oven roasting. This technique yields three times as many servings as frying in a skillet.
  

Technique

• Potato Chain Reaction

  While developing a potato salad recipe not too long ago, we discovered that adding vinegar to the cooking water creates an acidic environment that slows the breakdown of the pectin that holds potato cells together, resulting in a firm, intact texture. So when our home fries required  a thin outer layer of mush that would brown thoroughly in the oven, we took the opposite approach:
  
   We created an alkaline environment by adding a little bit of baking soda to the water. After just one minute in the pot, the exteriors of the potatoes became so soft that they were mushy—but the interiors remained raw. This lead to potatoes that more readily crisped on the outside when roasted but didn’t dry out on the inside.
  
  How could just 1/2 teaspoon of baking soda added to 10 cups of water be so powerful? It’s because alkaline baking soda triggers a chain reaction that literally unzips the backbone of the pectin molecules and causes them to fall apart. This requires only enough alkali to raise the pH of the water high enough to start the reaction, after which it becomes self-sustaining.
  
• BOILED WITH BAKING SODA (pH 8.1)
  
• BOILED WITH VINEGAR (pH 3)
  

Ten-Minute Steel-Cut Oatmeal

 

The oatmeal will continue to thicken as it cools. If you prefer a looser consistency, thin the oatmeal with boiling water. Customize your oatmeal with toppings such as brown sugar, toasted nuts, maple syrup, or dried fruit.

Ingredients

• 4cups water
• 1cup steel-cut oats
• 1/4teaspoon salt

Instructions

• 1. Bring 3 cups water to boil in large saucepan over high heat. Remove pan from heat; stir in oats and salt. Cover pan and let stand overnight.
• 2. Stir remaining 1 cup water into oats and bring to boil over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, until oats are softened but still retain some chew and mixture thickens and resembles warm pudding, 4 to 6 minutes. Remove pan from heat and let stand for 5 minutes. Stir and serve, passing desired toppings separately.

Technique

• Know your Oats

  The cereal aisle stocks a variety of oat products—but not all of them make for a good bowl of oatmeal.
  
• GROATS: Whole oats that have been hulled and cleaned. They are the least processed oat product, but we find them too coarse for oatmeal.
  
• STEEL-CUT OATS: Groats cut crosswise into coarse bits. We strongly prefer them in oatmeal; they cook up creamy yet chewy with rich, nutty flavor.
  
• ROLLED OATS: Groats steamed and pressed into flat flakes. They cook faster than steel-cut but make for a gummy, lackluster bowl of oatmeal.