Soups and Stews

Old-Fashioned Chicken Noodle Soup

Ingredients

• 1 1/2pounds bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs, trimmed
•   Salt and pepper
• 1tablespoon vegetable oil
• 3 carrots, peeled and chopped medium
• 2 celery ribs, chopped medium
• 1 onion, minced
• 3 garlic cloves, minced
• 1tablespoon tomato paste
• 2teaspoons minced fresh thyme or 1/2 teaspoon dried
• 1/8teaspoon red pepper flakes
• 8cups low-sodium chicken broth
• 2 bay leaves
• 1(12-ounce) bone-in, skin-on split chicken breast, trimmed
• 1 1/2ounces wide egg noodles (about 1 cup)
• 1/2cup frozen peas
• 2tablespoons minced fresh parsley

Instructions

• 1. Dry chicken thighs with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Brown chicken thighs well on both sides, 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer to plate, let cool slightly, and discard skin.
• 2. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon fat left in pan. Add carrots, celery, and onion and cook over medium heat until vegetables are softened, 7 to 10 minutes. Stir in garlic, tomato paste, thyme, and red pepper flakes and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in 1 cup chicken broth, scraping up any browned bits; transfer to slow cooker.
• 3. Stir remaining 7 cups broth and bay leaves into slow cooker. Nestle browned chicken with any accumulated juice into slow cooker. Season chicken breast with salt and pepper, wrap in foil packet, and lay on top of soup. Cover and cook until chicken is tender, 4 to 6 hours on low.
• 4. Remove foil packet, open it carefully (watch for steam), and transfer chicken breast to cutting board. Transfer chicken thighs to cutting board. Let all chicken cool slightly, then shred into bite-sized pieces, discarding skin and bones. Let soup settle for 5 minutes, then remove fat from surface using large spoon. Discard bay leaves.
• 5. Cook egg noodles in boiling salted water until tender, then drain. Stir cooked noodles, shredded chicken, and peas into soup and let sit until heated through, about 5 minutes. Stir in parsley, season with salt and pepper to taste, and serve.

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Split Pea and Ham Soup

Four ounces of regular sliced bacon can be used, but the thinner slices are a little harder to remove from the soup. Depending on the age and brand of split peas, the consistency of the soup may vary slightly. If the soup is too thin at the end of step 3, increase the heat and simmer, uncovered, until the desired consistency is reached. If it is too thick, thin it with a little water. Serve the soup sprinkled with Buttery Croutons (related), fresh peas, and chopped mint and drizzled with aged balsamic vinegar. The soup can be made up to 3 days in advance. If necessary, thin it with water when reheating.

Ingredients

• 2tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1large onion, chopped fine (about 1 1/2 cups)
•   Table salt
• 2medium garlic cloves, minced or pressed through garlic press (about 2 teaspoons)
• 7cups water
• 1 ham steak (about 1 pound), skin removed, cut into quarters
• 3slices thick-cut bacon (about 4 ounces) (see note)
• 1pound green split peas (about 2 cups), picked through and rinsed
• 2sprigs fresh thyme
• 2 bay leaves
• 2medium carrots, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch pieces (about 1 cup)
• 1medium celery rib, cut into 1/2-inch pieces (about 1 cup)
•   Ground black pepper

Instructions

• 1. Heat butter in large Dutch oven over medium-high heat. When foaming subsides, add onion and ½ teaspoon salt; cook, stirring frequently, until softened, about 3 to 4 minutes. Add garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add water, ham steak, bacon, peas, thyme, and bay leaves. Increase heat to high and bring to simmer, stirring frequently to keep peas from sticking to bottom. Reduce heat to low, cover, and simmer until peas are tender but not falling apart, about 45 minutes.
  
• 2. Remove ham steak, cover with foil or plastic wrap to prevent drying out, and set aside. Stir in carrots and celery; continue to simmer, covered, until vegetables are tender and peas have almost completely broken down, about 30 minutes longer.
  
• 3. When cool enough to handle, shred ham into small bite-size pieces with two forks. Remove and discard thyme sprigs, bay leaves, and bacon slices. Stir ham back into soup and return to simmer. Season to taste with salt and pepper; serve.

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Corn Chowder

 

Be careful to remove only the part of the corn kernel sticking out of the cob; cutting deeper will pull off fibrous material. Yukon gold potatoes can be substituted for the red potatoes, minced chives for the basil. Depending on the sweetness of your corn, the finished chowder may need to be seasoned with sugar.

Ingredients

• 8ears corn, husks and silk removed
• 3tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1 onion, chopped fine
• 4slices bacon, halved lengthwise then cut into 1/4 inch pieces
• 2teaspoons minced fresh thyme
•   Salt and pepper
• 1/4cup all-purpose flour
• 5cups water
• 3/4pound red potatoes, cut into 1/2 inch pieces
• 1cup half-and-half
•   Sugar
• 3tablespoons chopped fresh basil

Instructions

• 1. Using chef’s knife or corn stripper, cut kernels from corn; transfer to bowl and set aside (you should have 5 to 6 cups kernels). Holding cobs over second bowl, use back of butter knife to firmly scrape any remaining pulp on cobs into bowl (you should have 2 to 2 1/2 cups pulp). Transfer pulp to center of clean kitchen towel set in medium bowl. Wrap towel tightly around pulp and squeeze tightly until dry. Discard pulp in towel and set corn juice aside (you should have about 2/3 cup juice).
• 2. Melt butter in Dutch oven over medium heat; add onion, bacon, thyme, 2 teaspoons salt, and 1 teaspoon pepper; cook, stirring frequently, until onion is softened and edges are beginning to brown, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in flour and cook, stirring constantly, for 2 minutes. Whisking constantly, gradually add water and bring to boil. Add corn kernels and potatoes. Return to simmer; reduce heat to medium-low and cook until potatoes have softened, 15 to 18 minutes.
• 3. Process 2 cups chowder in blender until smooth, 1 to 2 minutes. Return puree to chowder; add half-and-half and return to simmer. Remove pot from heat and stir in reserved corn juice. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and up to 1 tablespoon sugar. Serve, sprinkling with basil.

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Catalan-Style Beef Stew with Mushrooms

 

Remove the woody base of the oyster mushroom stem before cooking. An equal amount of quartered button mushrooms may be substituted for the oyster mushrooms. Serve the stew with boiled or mashed potatoes or rice.

Ingredients

Stew

• 2tablespoons olive oil
• 2 large onions, chopped fine
• 1/2teaspoon sugar
•   Kosher salt and pepper
• 2 plum tomatoes, halved lengthwise, pulp grated on large holes of box grater, and skins discarded
• 1teaspoon smoked paprika
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 1/2cups dry white wine
• 1 1/2cups water
• 1large sprig fresh thyme
• 1/4teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 2 1/2pounds boneless beef short ribs, trimmed and cut into 2-inch cubes

Picada

• 1/4cup whole blanched almonds
• 2tablespoons olive oil
• 1slice hearty white sandwich bread, crust removed, torn into 1-inch pieces
• 2 garlic cloves, peeled
• 3tablespoons minced fresh parsley
• 1/2pound oyster mushrooms, trimmed
• 1teaspoon sherry vinegar

Instructions

• 1. FOR THE STEW: Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 300 degrees. Heat oil in Dutch oven over medium-low heat until shimmering. Add onions, sugar, and ½ teaspoon salt; cook, stirring often, until onions are deeply caramelized, 30 to 40 minutes. Add tomatoes, smoked paprika, and bay leaf; cook, stirring often, until darkened and thick, 5 to 10 minutes. 
• 2. Add wine, water, thyme, and cinnamon to pot, scraping up any browned bits. Season beef with 1½ teaspoons salt and ½ teaspoon pepper and add to pot. Increase heat to high and bring to simmer. Transfer to oven and cook, uncovered. After 1 hour stir stew to redistribute meat, return to oven, and continue to cook uncovered until meat is tender, 1½ to 2 hours longer. 
• 3. FOR THE PICADA: While stew is in oven, heat almonds and 1 tablespoon oil in 10-inch skillet over medium heat; cook, stirring often, until almonds are golden brown, 3 to 6 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer almonds to food processor. Return now-empty skillet to medium heat, add bread, and cook, stirring often, until toasted, 2 to 4 minutes; transfer to food processor with almonds. Add garlic and process until mixture is finely ground, about 20 seconds, scraping bowl as needed. Transfer mixture to bowl, stir in parsley, and set aside. 
• 4. Return now-empty skillet to medium heat. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil until shimmering. Add mushrooms and ½ teaspoon salt; cook, stirring often, until tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer to bowl and set aside.
• 5. Remove bay leaf. Stir picada, mushrooms, and vinegar into stew. Season with salt and pepper. Serve. 
• TO MAKE AHEAD: Follow recipe through step 2 and refrigerate for up to 3 days. To serve, add 1 cup water and reheat over medium heat. Proceed with step 3.

Technique

• Shaking Up Stew Standards

  To achieve the supremely beefy and complex flavor profile of Spanish beef stew, we learned a few new tricks—and gave up some long-held notions.
  
  
• START WITH SOFRITO
  A slow-cooked mixture of onions, tomatoes, spices, and herbs—known as sofrito in Spain—forms a flavor-packed base for the stew.
  
• GO FOR WHITE WINE
  We typically use red wine in beef stew. Here, we agreed with Spanish cooks that red wine ­competes with beefy flavor, so we reached for white instead.
  
  
• SWAP THE ROAST FOR RIBS
  Most stew recipes (including many of ours) call for chuck-eye roast. Boneless beef short ribs are even beefier-tasting and are easier to break down.
  
  
• SKIP THE SEAR
  By cooking the stew in the oven and leaving the pot ­uncovered, any part of the beef not ­submerged in liquid can brown, making searing unnecessary.
  
  
• END WITH PICADA
  A mixture of ground toasted bread, almonds, garlic, and ­parsley—the picada—stirred in before serving brightens the stew’s flavor and thic

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Spanish-Style Toasted Pasta with Shrimp

 

In step 5, if your skillet is not broiler-safe, once the pasta is tender transfer the mixture to a broiler-safe 13 by 9-inch baking dish lightly coated with olive oil; scatter the shrimp over the pasta and stir them in to partially submerge. Broil and serve as directed. Serve this dish with lemon wedges.

Ingredients

• 3tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil
• 3 garlic cloves minced (1 tablespoon)
•   Salt and pepper
• 1 1/2pounds extra large shrimp (21 to 25 per pound), peeled and deveined, shells reserved
• 2 3/4cups water
• 1cup low-sodium chicken broth
• 1 bay leaf
• 8ounces spaghettini or thin spaghetti, broken into 1- to 2-inch lengths
• 1 onion, chopped fine
• 1(14.5-ounce) can diced tomatoes, drained and chopped fine
• 1teaspoon paprika
• 1teaspoon smoked paprika
• 1/2teaspoon anchovy paste
• 1/4cup dry white wine
• 1tablespoon chopped fresh parsley
•   Lemon wedges

Instructions

• 1. Combine 1 tablespoon oil, 1 teaspoon garlic, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and 1/8 teaspoon pepper in medium bowl. Add shrimp, toss to coat, and refrigerate until ready to use. 
• 2. Place reserved shrimp shells, water, chicken broth, and bay leaf in medium bowl. Cover and microwave until liquid is hot and shells have turned pink, about 6 minutes. Set aside until ready to use.
• 3. Toss spaghettini and 2 teaspoons oil in broiler-safe 12-inch skillet until spaghettini is evenly coated. Toast spaghettini over medium-high heat, stirring frequently, until browned and nutty in aroma (spaghettini should be color of peanut butter), 6 to 10 minutes. Transfer spaghettini to bowl. Wipe out skillet with paper towel. 
• 4. Heat remaining 2 tablespoons oil in now-empty skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add onion and 1/4 teaspoon salt; cook, stirring frequently, until onion is softened and beginning to brown around edges, 4 to 6 minutes. Add tomatoes and cook, stirring occasionally, until mixture is thick, dry, and slightly darkened in color, 4 to 6 minutes. Reduce heat to medium and add remaining garlic, paprika, smoked paprika, and anchovy paste. Cook until fragrant, about 1 1/2 minutes. Add spaghettini and stir to combine. Adjust oven rack 5 to 6 inches from broiler element and heat broiler.
• 5. Pour broth through fine-mesh strainer into skillet. Add wine, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper and stir well. Increase heat to medium-high and bring to simmer. Cook uncovered, stirring occasionally, until liquid is slightly thickened and spaghettini is just tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Scatter shrimp over spaghettini and stir shrimp into spaghettini to partially submerge. Transfer skillet to oven and broil until shrimp are opaque and surface of spaghettini is dry with crisped, browned spots, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove from oven and let stand, uncovered, for 5 minutes. Sprinkle with parsley and serve immediately, passing lemon wedges separately.

Technique

• It's a Snap

  Since traditional short fideos noodles are hard to find, we came up with an easy way to break long strands into even lengths.
  
• 
  Loosely fold 4 ounces of spaghettini in kitchen towel, keeping pasta flat, not bunched.
• 
  Position so that 1 to 2 inches of pasta rests on counter and remainder of pasta hangs off edge. Pressing bundle against counter, press down on long end of towel to break strands into pieces, sliding bundle back over edge after each break.

Technique

• WeeknIght SpanIsh-style Pasta wIth ShrImp

  A series of shortcuts allowed us to create this traditionally labor-intensive, paella-like dish in a single skillet in just an hour.
  
• Season Shrimp: Marinating shrimp in olive oil, garlic, salt, and pepper infuses them with flavor as we prepare other ingredients.
  
• Make Instant Stock: Microwaving shrimp shells with diluted chicken broth and a bay leaf creates quick, suprisingly rich-tasting broth.
  
• Toast Noodles: Cooking pasta (broken into pieces) in a skillet with olive oil until well browned develops deep, nutty flavor.
  
• Cook in Broth: Simmering the noodles in stock and a quick sofrito of sauteed onion, garlic, and tomatoes lets them soak up lots of flavor.
  
• Add Shrimp; Broil: Partially submerging the shrimp under the pasta and then transferring the skillet to the broiler creates a crisp, browned crust.
  

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Farmhouse Vegetable and Barley Soup

 

We prefer an acidic, un-oaked white wine such as sauvignon blanc for this recipe. We love the richness added by the Lemon-Thyme Butter (related), but the soup can also be garnished with crisp bacon, crumbled cheddar cheese, or croutons.

Ingredients

• 1/8ounce dried porcini mushrooms
• 8sprigs fresh parsley plus 3 tablespoons chopped
• 4sprigs fresh thyme
• 1 bay leaf
• 2tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1 1/2pounds leeks, white and light green parts sliced 1/2 inch thick and washed thoroughly
• 2 carrots, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 2 celery ribs, cut into 1/4-inch pieces
• 1/3cup dry white wine
• 2teaspoons soy sauce
•   Salt and pepper
• 6cups water
• 4cups low-sodium chicken broth or vegetable broth
• 1/2cup pearl barley
• 1 garlic clove, peeled and smashed
• 1 1/2pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 1 turnip, peeled and cut into 3/4-inch pieces
• 1 1/2cups chopped green cabbage
• 1cup frozen peas
• 1teaspoon lemon juice

Instructions

• 1. Grind porcini with spice grinder until they resemble fine meal, 10 to 30 seconds. Measure out 2 teaspoons porcini powder; reserve remainder for other use. Using kitchen twine, tie together parsley sprigs, thyme, and bay leaf.
• 2. Melt butter in large Dutch oven over medium heat. Add leeks, carrots, celery, wine, soy sauce, and 2 teaspoons salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until liquid has evaporated and celery is softened, about 10 minutes.
• 3. Add water, broth, barley, porcini powder, herb bundle, and garlic; increase heat to high and bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, partially covered, for 25 minutes.
• 4. Add potatoes, turnip, and cabbage; return to simmer and cook until barley, potatoes, turnip, and cabbage are tender, 18 to 20 minutes. 
• 5. Remove pot from heat and remove herb bundle. Stir in peas, lemon juice, and chopped parsley; season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve, passing Lemon-Thyme Butter separately.

Technique

• Building Savory Flavor On the Double

  To ramp up savory flavor in our Farmhouse Vegetable and Barley Soup, we tried adding umami boosters like soy sauce and porcini mushrooms and made an interesting discovery. We found that using less of both ingredients—versus more of just one or the other—had a powerful impact on flavor. Here’s why: Soy sauce contains high levels of naturally occurring, flavor-enhancing compounds called glutamates, while mushrooms are rich in flavor-amplifying compounds known as nucleotides. Used together, the two compounds can boost savory, umami-like flavors exponentially. Their effect is even more pronounced when the ratio of glutamates to nucleotides is very high. (Studies suggest that an effective ratio is 95:5.)
  Of course, we couldn’t measure exactly how much of each compound was making it into the pot, so we tinkered with the amount of soy and porcini we were adding until we hit it just right.
  
• Glutamates + Nucleotides = Big Savory Flavor
  Due to the synergist effect of their difference flavor-enhancing compounds, small amounts of both soy sauce and porcini mushrooms add up to a more profound impact on flavor than a greater amount of just one of these ingredients.
  
  

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Italian Vegetable Stew (Ciambotta)

 

Serve this hearty vegetable stew with crusty bread.

Ingredients

Pestata

• 1/3cup chopped fresh basil
• 1/3cup fresh oregano leaves
• 6 garlic cloves, minced
• 2tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 1/4teaspoon red pepper flakes

Stew

• 12ounces eggplant, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
•   Salt
• 4tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 1large onion, chopped
• 1pound russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 2tablespoons tomato paste
• 2 1/4cups water
• 1(28-ounce) can whole peeled tomatoes, drained with juice reserved and chopped coarse
• 2 zucchini (8 ounces each), seeded and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 2 red or yellow bell peppers, stemmed, seeded, and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 1cup shredded fresh basil

Instructions

• 1. FOR THE PESTATA: Process all ingredients in food processor until finely ground, about 1 minute, scraping sides as necessary. Set aside. 
• 2. FOR THE STEW: Toss eggplant with 1½ teaspoons salt in bowl. Line surface of large plate with double layer of coffee filters and lightly spray with vegetable oil spray. Spread eggplant in even layer over coffee filters. Microwave eggplant, uncovered, until dry to touch and slightly shriveled, 8 to 12 minutes, tossing once halfway through to ensure that eggplant cooks evenly. 
• 3. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in Dutch oven over high heat until shimmering. Add eggplant, onion, and potatoes; cook, stirring frequently, until eggplant browns and surface of potatoes becomes translucent, about 2 minutes. Push vegetables to sides of pot; add 1 tablespoon oil and tomato paste to clearing. Cook paste, stirring frequently, until brown fond develops on bottom of pot, about 2 minutes. Add 2 cups water and chopped tomatoes and juice, scraping up any browned bits, and bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium, cover, and gently simmer until eggplant is completely broken down and potatoes are tender, about 20 to 25 minutes. 
• 4. Meanwhile, heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch skillet over high heat until smoking. Add zucchini, bell peppers, and ½ teaspoon salt; cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are browned and tender, 10 to 12 minutes. Push vegetables to sides of skillet; add pestata and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir pestata into vegetables and transfer vegetables to bowl. Add remaining ¼ cup water to skillet off heat, scraping up browned bits. 
• 5. Remove pot from heat and stir reserved vegetables and water from skillet into vegetables in Dutch oven. Cover pot and let stand for 20 minutes to allow flavors to meld. Stir in basil and season with salt to taste; serve.

Technique

• What's a Pestata?

  A relative of pesto, pistou, ­picada, and gremolata, ­pestata is a potent garlic, herb, and olive oil puree. When stirred into the ­ciambotta toward the end of cooking, its grassy bite freshens the rich, earthy flavors of the stew.
  
• FRESHENING UP
  A pestata made with olive oil, fresh oregano and basil, garlic, and red pepper flakes brightens the stew.
  

Technique

• Coaxing Big Flavor Out of Watery Produce

  Eggplant, potatoes, zucchini, peppers, and onions have plenty of flavor to offer—provided you cook off their excess water. Then, to develop the stew’s savory depth, build a concentrated fond with tomato paste.
  
• BUILD STEW BASE
  To deepen their flavors, cook the potatoes, onion, and eggplant (parcooked so it breaks down to thicken the stew) in a Dutch oven.
  
  
• ENHANCE FOND 
  Sautéing tomato paste builds up a savory crust, which we deglaze with water and canned tomatoes to boost the stew’s flavor.
  
  
• SAUTÉ WATERY VEGGIES IN SKILLET 
  Browning the peppers and zucchini separately in a shallow pan cooks off moisture and deepens their flavor.
  
  
• ADD PESTATA
  Clear the center of the pan, add the pestata, and briefly sauté. The herb-garlic mixture will add a fresh burst of flavor.
  
• COMBINE AND WAIT
  After marrying the two batches of vegetables, let the stew stand for 20 minutes to allow the flavors to meld.

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Farmhouse Vegetable and Barley Soup

We prefer an acidic, un-oaked white wine such as sauvignon blanc for this recipe. We love the richness added by the Lemon-Thyme Butter (related), but the soup can also be garnished with crisp bacon, crumbled cheddar cheese, or croutons.

Ingredients

• 1/8ounce dried porcini mushrooms
• 8sprigs fresh parsley plus 3 tablespoons chopped
• 4sprigs fresh thyme
• 1 bay leaf
• 2tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1 1/2pounds leeks, white and light green parts sliced 1/2 inch thick and washed thoroughly
• 2 carrots, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 2 celery ribs, cut into 1/4-inch pieces
• 1/3cup dry white wine
• 2teaspoons soy sauce
•   Salt and pepper
• 6cups water
• 4cups low-sodium chicken broth or vegetable broth
• 1/2cup pearl barley
• 1 garlic clove, peeled and smashed
• 1 1/2pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 1 turnip, peeled and cut into 3/4-inch pieces
• 1 1/2cups chopped green cabbage
• 1cup frozen peas
• 1teaspoon lemon juice

Instructions

• 1. Grind porcini with spice grinder until they resemble fine meal, 10 to 30 seconds. Measure out 2 teaspoons porcini powder; reserve remainder for other use. Using kitchen twine, tie together parsley sprigs, thyme, and bay leaf.
• 2. Melt butter in large Dutch oven over medium heat. Add leeks, carrots, celery, wine, soy sauce, and 2 teaspoons salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until liquid has evaporated and celery is softened, about 10 minutes.
• 3. Add water, broth, barley, porcini powder, herb bundle, and garlic; increase heat to high and bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, partially covered, for 25 minutes.
• 4. Add potatoes, turnip, and cabbage; return to simmer and cook until barley, potatoes, turnip, and cabbage are tender, 18 to 20 minutes.
• 5. Remove pot from heat and remove herb bundle. Stir in peas, lemon juice, and chopped parsley; season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve, passing Lemon-Thyme Butter separately.

Technique

• Building Savory Flavor On the Double

  To ramp up savory flavor in our Farmhouse Vegetable and Barley Soup, we tried adding umami boosters like soy sauce and porcini mushrooms and made an interesting discovery. We found that using less of both ingredients—versus more of just one or the other—had a powerful impact on flavor. Here’s why: Soy sauce contains high levels of naturally occurring, flavor-enhancing compounds called glutamates, while mushrooms are rich in flavor-amplifying compounds known as nucleotides. Used together, the two compounds can boost savory, umami-like flavors exponentially. Their effect is even more pronounced when the ratio of glutamates to nucleotides is very high. (Studies suggest that an effective ratio is 95:5.)
  Of course, we couldn’t measure exactly how much of each compound was making it into the pot, so we tinkered with the amount of soy and porcini we were adding until we hit it just right.
  
• Glutamates + Nucleotides = Big Savory Flavor
  Due to the synergist effect of their difference flavor-enhancing compounds, small amounts of both soy sauce and porcini mushrooms add up to a more profound impact on flavor than a greater amount of just one of these ingredients.
  
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  Split Pea and Ham Soup

  Four ounces of regular sliced bacon can be used, but the thinner slices are a little harder to remove from the soup. Depending on the age and brand of split peas, the consistency of the soup may vary slightly. If the soup is too thin at the end of step 3, increase the heat and simmer, uncovered, until the desired consistency is reached. If it is too thick, thin it with a little water. Serve the soup sprinkled with Buttery Croutons (related), fresh peas, and chopped mint and drizzled with aged balsamic vinegar. The soup can be made up to 3 days in advance. If necessary, thin it with water when reheating.

  Ingredients

• 2tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1large onion, chopped fine (about 1 1/2 cups)
•   Table salt
• 2medium garlic cloves, minced or pressed through garlic press (about 2 teaspoons)
• 7cups water
• 1 ham steak (about 1 pound), skin removed, cut into quarters
• 3slices thick-cut bacon (about 4 ounces) (see note)
• 1pound green split peas (about 2 cups), picked through and rinsed
• 2sprigs fresh thyme
• 2 bay leaves
• 2medium carrots, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch pieces (about 1 cup)
• 1medium celery rib, cut into 1/2-inch pieces (about 1 cup)
•   Ground black pepper

Instructions

• 1. Heat butter in large Dutch oven over medium-high heat. When foaming subsides, add onion and ½ teaspoon salt; cook, stirring frequently, until softened, about 3 to 4 minutes. Add garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add water, ham steak, bacon, peas, thyme, and bay leaves. Increase heat to high and bring to simmer, stirring frequently to keep peas from sticking to bottom. Reduce heat to low, cover, and simmer until peas are tender but not falling apart, about 45 minutes.
• 2. Remove ham steak, cover with foil or plastic wrap to prevent drying out, and set aside. Stir in carrots and celery; continue to simmer, covered, until vegetables are tender and peas have almost completely broken down, about 30 minutes longer.
• 3. When cool enough to handle, shred ham into small bite-size pieces with two forks. Remove and discard thyme sprigs, bay leaves, and bacon slices. Stir ham back into soup and return to simmer. Season to taste with salt and pepper; serve.
  
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  Broccoli-Cheese Soup

  
  
  To make a vegetarian version of this soup, substitute vegetable broth for the chicken broth.

  Ingredients

• 2tablespoons unsalted butter
• 2pounds broccoli, florets roughly chopped into 1-inch pieces, stems trimmed, peeled, and cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices
• 1 medium onion, roughly chopped (about 1 cup)
• 2 medium garlic cloves, minced or pressed through garlic press (about 2 teaspoons)
• 1 1/2teaspoons dry mustard powder
•  Pinch cayenne pepper
•   Table salt
• 3–4cups water
• 1/4teaspoon baking soda
• 2cups low-sodium chicken broth (see note)
• 2ounces baby spinach (2 loosely packed cups)
• 3ounces sharp cheddar cheese, shredded (3/4 cup)
• 1 1/2ounces Parmesan cheese, grated fine (about 3/4 cup), plus extra for serving
•   Ground black pepper

Instructions

• 1. Heat butter in large Dutch oven over medium-high heat. When foaming subsides, add broccoli, onion, garlic, dry mustard, cayenne, and 1 teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring frequently, until fragrant, about 6 minutes. Add 1 cup water and baking soda. Bring to simmer, cover, and cook until broccoli is very soft, about 20 minutes, stirring once during cooking.
• 2. Add broth and 2 cups water and increase heat to medium-high. When mixture begins to simmer, stir in spinach and cook until wilted, about 1 minute. Transfer half of soup to blender, add cheddar and Parmesan, and process until smooth, about 1 minute. Transfer soup to medium bowl and repeat with remaining soup. Return soup to Dutch oven, place over medium heat and bring to simmer. Adjust consistency of soup with up to 1 cup water. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve, passing extra Parmesan separately.