Pasta

 

 Spaghetti with Mushroom and Tomato Sauce (Quick Mushroom Ragu)

Why this recipe works: Using pancetta and its fat in our Spaghetti with Mushroom and Tomato Sauce recipe compensated for the lean nature of the mushrooms and made our mushroom ragu meatier. Portobello mushrooms gave

Use a spoon to scrape the dark brown gills from the portobellos.

Ingredients

• 1ounce dried porcini mushrooms, rinsed well
• 1cup low-sodium chicken broth
• 4ounces pancetta, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 1/2pound portobello mushrooms (2 large), stems and gills removed and discarded, caps cut into 1/2-inch pieces (about 1 1/2 cups) (see note)
• 3tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 4 medium garlic cloves, peeled and sliced thin
• 1tablespoon tomato paste
• 2teaspoons minced fresh rosemary leaves
• 1(14.5-ounce) can whole tomatoes, roughly crushed by hand
•   Table salt and ground black pepper
• 1pound spaghetti
•   Grated Pecorino Romano, for serving

Instructions

• 1. Place porcini and broth in small microwave-safe bowl; cover with plastic wrap and cut several steam vents in plastic with paring knife. Microwave on high power 1 minute, until broth is steaming. Let stand until mushrooms soften, about 10 minutes. Lift mushrooms from broth with fork and finely chop. Strain broth through fine-mesh strainer lined with large coffee filter into medium bowl. Set aside mushrooms and broth.
  
• 2. Heat pancetta in 12-inch skillet over medium heat; cook, stirring occasionally, until rendered and crisp, 7 to 10 minutes. Add portobellos, chopped porcini, olive oil, garlic, tomato paste, and rosemary; cook, stirring occasionally, until all liquid has evaporated and tomato paste starts to brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Add reserved chicken broth, crushed tomatoes, and their juices; increase heat to high and bring to simmer. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until thickened, 15 to 20 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
  
• 3. While sauce simmers, bring 4 quarts water to boil in large Dutch oven. Add 1 tablespoon salt and pasta; cook until al dente. Drain pasta, reserving ½ cup cooking water, and return to pot. Add sauce to pasta and toss to combine. Adjust consistency with reserved pasta water and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve, passing Pecorino separately.
  
  =======================================================================
   
  

  Pasta All'Amatriciana

  
  
  Look for salt pork that is roughly 70 percent fat and 30 percent lean meat; leaner salt pork may not render enough fat. If it is difficult to slice, put the salt pork in the freezer for 15 minutes to firm up. Use high-quality imported Pecorino Romano—not the bland domestic cheese labeled “Romano.”

  Ingredients

• 8ounces salt pork, rind removed, rinsed thoroughly, and patted dry
• 1/2cup water
• 1/2teaspoon red pepper flakes
• 2tablespoons tomato paste
• 1/4cup red wine
• 1(28-ounce) can diced tomatoes
• 2ounces Pecorino Romano, finely grated (1 cup)
• 1pound spaghetti
• 1tablespoon salt

Instructions

• 1. Slice pork into ¼-inch-thick strips, then cut each strip crosswise into ¼-inch pieces. Bring pork and water to simmer in 10-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat; cook until water evaporates and pork begins to sizzle, 5 to 8 minutes. Reduce heat to medium-low and continue to cook, stirring frequently, until fat renders and pork turns golden, 5 to 8 minutes longer. Using slotted spoon, transfer pork to bowl. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon fat from skillet. Reserve remaining fat.
  
• 2. Return skillet to medium heat and add pepper flakes and tomato paste; cook, stirring constantly, for 20 seconds. Stir in wine and cook for 30 seconds. Stir in tomatoes and their juice and rendered pork and bring to simmer. Cook, stirring frequently, until thickened, 12 to 16 minutes. While sauce simmers, smear 2 tablespoons reserved fat and ½ cup Pecorino Romano together in bowl to form paste.
  
• 3. Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to boil in large Dutch oven. Add spaghetti and salt and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Reserve 1 cup cooking water, then drain spaghetti and return it to pot.
  
• 4. Add sauce, 1/3 cup cooking water, and Pecorino Romano–fat mixture to pasta and toss well to coat, adjusting consistency with remaining cooking water as needed. Serve, passing remaining 1/2 cup Pecorino Romano separately.

Technique

• Pork versus Pork

  Guanciale, which is made by salting and drying hog jowls, is the traditional choice for this dish due to its intense pure-pork flavor. Looking for something equally porky but more readily available, we turn to salt pork, which is also salt-cured but is made from the belly.
  
• GUANCIALE: Salted jowl.
  
• SALT PORK: Salted belly.
  

 ===================================

 

Potato Gnocchi with Browned Butter and Sage

 

For the most accurate measurements, weigh the potatoes and flour. After processing, you may have slightly more than the 3 cups (16 ounces) of potatoes recquired for this recipe. Discard any extra or set aside for another use. Besides the browned butter sauce, try our Gorgonzola Cream Sauce, Parmesan Sauce with Pancetta and Walnuts, and Porcini Mushroom Broth (related).

Ingredients

Gnocchi

• 2pounds russet potatoes
• 1large egg, lightly beaten
• 3/4cup plus 1 tablespoon (4 ounces) all-purpose flour, plus extra for the counter
• 1teaspoon plus 1 tablespoon salt

Sauce

• 4tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces
• 1small shallot, minced
• 1teaspoon minced fresh sage
• 1 1/2teaspoons lemon juice
• 1/4teaspoon salt

Instructions

• 1. FOR THE GNOCCHI: Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees. Poke each potato 8 times with paring knife over entire surface. Microwave potatoes until slightly softened at ends, about 10 minutes, flipping potatoes halfway through cooking. Transfer potatoes directly to oven rack and bake until skewer glides easily through flesh and potatoes yield to gentle pressure, 18 to 20 minutes.
• 2. Holding each potato with potholder or kitchen towel, peel with paring knife. Process potatoes through ricer or food mill onto rimmed baking sheet. Gently spread potatoes into even layer and let cool for 5 minutes.
• 3. Transfer 3 cups (16 ounces) warm potatoes to bowl. Using fork, gently stir in egg until just combined. Sprinkle flour and 1 teaspoon salt over potato mixture. Using fork, gently combine until no pockets of dry flour remain. Press mixture into rough ball, transfer to lightly floured counter, and gently knead until smooth but slightly sticky, about 1 minute, lightly dusting counter with flour as needed to prevent sticking.
• 4. Line 2 rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper and dust liberally with flour. Cut dough into 8 pieces. Lightly dust counter with flour. Gently roll piece of dough into ½-inch-thick rope, dusting with flour to prevent sticking. Cut rope into ¾-inch lengths. Holding fork with tines facing down in 1 hand, press each dough piece cut side down against tines with thumb of other hand to create indentation. Roll dough down tines to form ridges on sides. If dough sticks, dust thumb or fork with flour. Transfer formed gnocchi to sheets and repeat with remaining dough.
• 5. FOR THE SAUCE: Melt butter in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat, swirling occasionally, until butter is browned and releases nutty aroma, about 11/2 minutes. Off heat, add shallot and sage, stirring until shallot is fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in lemon juice and salt; cover to keep warm.
• 6. Bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add remaining 1 tablespoon salt. Using parchment paper as sling, gently lower gnocchi from 1 sheet into water and cook until firm and just cooked through, about 90 seconds (gnocchi should float to surface after about 1 minute). Using slotted spoon, transfer cooked gnocchi to skillet with sauce. Repeat with remaining gnocchi. Gently toss gnocchi with sauce and serve.

Technique

• Keys to Airy, Earthy-Tasting Potato Gnocchi

  BAKE, DON’T BOIL Boiled potatoes taste dull. Instead, jumpstart cooking in the microwave and then finish them in the oven.
  
• PEEL ’EM WHILE THEY’RE HOT Peel hot potatoes to release steam. This ensures drier spuds that hold together with less flour.
  
• SPREAD OUT Press the cooked potatoes through a ricer, then allow more steam to escape by spreading the potatoes on a sheet pan.
  
• BE PRECISE Start with an exact amount of cooked potato and flour so you knead only once.
  
• ADD AN EGG Egg helps dough hold its shape with less flour, for lighter results.
  
• KNEAD BRIEFLY Knead dough until it just holds together to avoid overdeveloping gluten.
  

Technique

• Make the Right Impression

  Ridges and indentations help gnocchi hold on to sauce. To create them, hold fork with tines facing down. Press each dough piece (cut side down) against tines with thumb to make indentation. Roll dumpling down tines to create ridges on sides.
  

 ===================================

 

Vegetable Lasagna

 

We prefer the lasagna made with our favorite wholemilk, block-style mozzarella from Sorrento, but Kraft part-skim preshredded mozzarella is also fine. Our preferred brands of crushed tomato are Tuttorosso and Muir Glen.

Ingredients

No-Cook Tomato Sauce

• 1(28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes
• 1/4cup chopped fresh basil
• 2tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 1teaspoon kosher salt
• 1/4teaspoon red pepper flakes

No-Cook Cream Sauce

• 4ounces Parmesan cheese, grated (2 cups)
• 1cup whole milk cottage cheese
• 1cup heavy cream
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 1teaspoon cornstarch
• 1/2teaspoon kosher salt
• 1/2teaspoon pepper

Vegetable Filling

• 1 1/2pounds eggplant, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes (about 7 cups)
•   Kosher salt and ground black pepper
• 1pound zucchini, cut into 1/2-inch pieces (about 4 cups)
• 1pound yellow squash, cut into 1/2-inch pieces (about 4 cups)
• 5tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil
• 4 garlic cloves, minced
• 1tablespoon minced fresh thyme
• 12ounces baby spinach (about 12 cups)

• 12 no-boil lasagna noodles
• 1/2cup minced pitted kalamata olives
• 12ounces low-moisture whole-milk mozzarella cheese, shredded (about 3 cups)
• 2tablespoons chopped fresh basil

Instructions

• 1. FOR THE TOMATO SAUCE: Whisk all ingredients together in bowl; set aside.
• 2. FOR THE CREAM SAUCE: Whisk all ingredients together in bowl; set aside.
• 3. FOR THE FILLING: Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 375 degrees. Toss eggplant with 1 teaspoon salt in large bowl. Line surface of large plate with double layer of coffee filters and lightly spray with vegetable oil spray. Spread eggplant in even layer over filters. Wipe out and reserve now-empty bowl. Microwave eggplant, uncovered, until dry to touch and slightly shriveled, about 10 minutes, tossing once halfway through to ensure that eggplant cooks evenly. Let cool slightly. Return eggplant to bowl and toss with zucchini and squash.
• 4. Combine 1 tablespoon oil, garlic, and thyme in small bowl. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add half eggplant mixture, ¼ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper; cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are lightly browned, about 7 minutes. Push vegetables to sides of skillet; add half of garlic mixture to clearing and cook, mashing with spatula, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir to combine garlic mixture with vegetables and transfer to medium bowl. Repeat with remaining eggplant mixture, 2 tablespoons oil, and remaining garlic mixture.
• 5. Return skillet to medium-high heat, add remaining teaspoon oil, and heat until shimmering. Add spinach and cook, stirring frequently, until wilted, about 3 minutes. Transfer spinach to paper towel–lined plate and drain 2 minutes. Stir into eggplant mixture.
• 6. TO ASSEMBLE: Spray 13 by 9-inch baking dish with vegetable oil spray. Spread 1 cup tomato sauce in bottom of baking dish; shingle 4 noodles on top of sauce. Spread half of vegetable mixture over noodles, followed by half of olives, half of cream sauce, and 1 cup of mozzarella. Repeat layering with 4 noodles, 1 cup tomato sauce, remaining vegetables, remaining olives, remaining cream sauce, and 1 cup mozzarella. Place remaining 4 noodles on top layer of cheese. Spread remaining 1 cup tomato sauce over noodles and sprinkle with remaining 1 cup mozzarella. Lightly spray large sheet of aluminum foil with vegetable oil spray and cover lasagna. Bake until -bubbling, about 35 minutes. Cool on wire rack 25 minutes. Cut into pieces, sprinkle with basil, and serve.

Technique

• Keys to Hearty, Full-Flavored Vegetable Lasagna

  GO FOR CREAMIER CHEESE Cottage cheese boasts not only a creamier consistency than drier, more pebbly ricotta but also tangier flavor.
  
• ADD RICH, NO-COOK CREAM SAUCE Instead of a traditional cooked béchamel, we whisk together a quick version made with heavy cream, Parmesan, the cottage cheese, and garlic, which we add directly to the casserole.
  
• ADD BRIGHT, NO-COOK TOMATO SAUCE  Simply stirring together crushed tomatoes, basil, garlic, and olive oil guarantees a sauce with bright flavor—and saves time at the stove, too.
  
• PUT A STOP TO OILY EGGPLANT  Salting, then microwaving the cubes of eggplant for 10 minutes eliminates moisture that would flood the lasagna and collapses its air pockets so it soaks up less oil.
  
• “DEHYDRATE” AND BROWN VEGGIES We toss the microwaved eggplant into a hot skillet with the squashes to rid them of water and develop flavorful browning. (Sautéing the spinach also helps rid it of moisture.)
  
• INFUSE VEGGIES WITH FLAVORFUL OIL A shot of garlic-thyme oil stirred in with the sautéed eggplant, summer squash, and zucchini near the end of cooking adds depth.
  

Technique

• What Ails Vegetable Lasagna

  
  
• The classic trio of eggplant, zucchini, and summer squash is typically rife with issues like washed out flavor, soggy vegetables, dry cheese, and dull red sauce.
  

Technique

• Shrinking Eggplant Down to Size

  Eggplant is full of water that will wash out the flavors of lasagna as it bakes in the oven. It's also riddled with air pockets that act as a magnet for oil. Salting the cubed fruit then microwaving it solves both problems: Microwaving not only speeds up salt's ability to pull moisture out of the eggplant but also collapses the eggplant's air pockets. (We set the eggplant on a double layer of coffee filters to absorb the excess moisture as it is released.) The result: Low moisture, meaty-tasting, eggplant that doesn't soak up too much oil when sauteed.
  
• RAW
  
• SALTED + MICROWAVED
  
  
  ======================================================================
   
  

  Spaghetti with Lemon and Olive Oil (al Limone)

   

  Let the dish rest briefly before serving so the flavors develop and the sauce thickens.

  Ingredients

•   Table salt
• 1pound spaghetti
• 1/4cup extra virgin olive oil, plus more for serving
• 1medium shallot, minced (about 3 tablespoons)
• 1/4cup heavy cream
• 2teaspoons finely grated zest and 1/4 cup juice from 3 lemons
• 1ounce finely grated Parmesan cheese (about 1/2 cup), plus more for serving
•   Ground black pepper
• 2tablespoons shredded fresh basil leaves

Instructions

• 1. Bring 4 quarts water to boil in large Dutch oven over high heat. Add 1 tablespoon salt and pasta to boiling water; cook, stirring frequently, until al dente. Reserve 1¾ cups cooking water, drain pasta into colander, and set aside.
• 2. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in now-empty Dutch oven over medium heat until shimmering. Add shallot and 1/2 teaspoon salt; cook until shallot is softened, about 2 minutes. Whisk 1 1/2 cups of reserved pasta cooking water and cream into pot; bring to simmer and cook for 2 minutes. Remove pot from heat, return pasta, and stir until coated. Stir in remaining 3 tablespoons oil, lemon zest, lemon juice, cheese, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper.
• 3. Cover and let pasta stand 2 minutes, tossing frequently and adjusting consistency with remaining 1/4 cup reserved pasta water if necessary. Stir in basil and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve, drizzling individual portions with oil and sprinkling with cheese.

• 
  

  
  

  =================================

   

  Classic Spaghetti and Meatballs for a Crowd

  
  
  One cup of plain yogurt thinned with ½ cup milk can be substituted for the buttermilk. Grate the onion on the large holes of a box grater. The ingredients in this recipe can be reduced by two-thirds to serve 4. For instructions on how to cook the pasta in less water, see Lots of Pasta, Less Water (related).

  Ingredients

  Meatballs

• 2 1/4cups (about 6 ounces) panko bread crumbs
• 1 1/2cups buttermilk (see note)
• 3 large eggs, lightly beaten
• 2pounds 85 percent lean ground beef
• 1pound ground pork
• 6ounces thinly sliced prosciutto, chopped fine
• 3ounces Parmesan cheese, grated (about 1 1/2 cups)
• 6tablespoons minced fresh parsley leaves
• 3 medium garlic cloves, minced or pressed through garlic press (about 1 tablespoon)
• 1 1/2teaspoons powdered gelatin, dissolved in 3 tablespoons cold water
•   Table salt and ground black pepper

Sauce

• 3tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 1/2cups grated onion from 1 to 2 onions (see note)
• 6 medium garlic cloves, minced or pressed through garlic press (about 2 tablespoons)
• 1/2teaspoon red pepper flakes
• 1teaspoon dried oregano
• 6cups tomato juice (bottled)
• 3(28-ounce) cans crushed tomatoes
• 6tablespoons dry white wine
•   Table salt and ground black pepper
• 3pounds spaghetti
• 1/2cup minced fresh basil leaves
• 3tablespoons minced fresh parsley leaves
•   Granulated sugar
•   Parmesan cheese, grated, for serving

Instructions

• 1. FOR THE MEATBALLS: Place wire racks in 2 foil-lined rimmed baking sheets. Adjust oven racks to lower-middle and upper-middle positions and heat oven to 450 degrees. Combine bread crumbs and buttermilk in large bowl and let sit, mashing occasionally with fork, until smooth paste forms, about 10 minutes.
• 2. Add eggs, beef, pork, prosciutto, Parmesan, parsley, garlic, gelatin mixture, 11/2 teaspoons salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper to bread-crumb mixture. Using hands, gently mix until thoroughly combined. Lightly form about ¼ cup mixture into 2-inch round meatball (about 2 ounces); repeat with remaining mixture to form approximately 40 meatballs.
• 3. Spray wire racks with nonstick cooking spray and place meatballs, evenly spaced, on racks; roast until browned, about 30 minutes, rotating trays from front to back and top to bottom halfway through.
• 4. FOR THE SAUCE: While meatballs roast, heat olive oil in large Dutch oven over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and golden around edges, 6 to 8 minutes. Add garlic, red pepper flakes, and oregano; cook, stirring frequently, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in tomato juice, crushed tomatoes, wine, 1½ teaspoons salt, and pepper to taste. Increase heat to medium-high and bring to simmer. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until slightly thickened, about 15 minutes.
• 5. Remove meatballs from oven and lower oven temperature to 300 degrees. Gently add meatballs to sauce, cover pot, and place in oven. Cook until meatballs are firm and sauce has thickened, about 1 hour.
• 6. Meanwhile, bring 10 quarts water to boil in 12-quart pot. Add pasta and 2 tablespoons salt to boiling water; cook until al dente. Drain pasta and return it to cooking pot.
• 7. TO SERVE: Stir basil and parsley into sauce and adjust seasoning with sugar, salt, and pepper. Toss pasta with 1½ cups sauce until lightly coated. Serve pasta, passing meatballs, remaining sauce, and grated Parmesan separately.

Technique

• Key Ingredients for Tender, Flavorful Meatballs

  PANKO
  Absorbent Japanese bread crumbs hold on to meat juices.
  
• PROSCUITTO
  Bits of glutamate-rich prosciutto boost meatiness.
  
• PARMESAN
  Also packed with glutamates, Parmesan builds savor.
  
• BUTTERMILK
  Tangy buttermilk lends more flavor than regular milk.
  
• GELATIN
  Gelatin helps the meatballs plump up and adds suppleness.
  

Technique

• Steps to Easier, Better Meatballs

  BROWN IN OVEN
  Roasting meatballs is far easier than messy, time-consuming batch-frying. Elevating the meatballs on a wire rack allows heat to circulate underneath for even browning.
  
• COOK IN SAUCE
  Most meatballs are simply warmed in the sauce. Allowing them to finish cooking in it adds richness to the sauce and juiciness to the meat.
  

=========================================================================

 

Spring Vegetable Pasta

For tips on trimming asparagus, see related tip. Campanelle is our pasta of choice in this dish, but farfalle and penne are acceptable substitutes.

Ingredients

• 3medium leeks, white and light green parts halved lengthwise, washed, and cut into 1/2-inch-thick slices (about 5 cups); 3 cups roughly chopped dark green parts reserved
• 1pound asparagus, tough ends snapped off, chopped coarsely, and reserved; spears cut on bias into 1/2-inch-thick pieces
• 2cups frozen baby peas, thawed
• 4medium garlic cloves, minced or pressed through garlic press (about 4 teaspoons)
• 4cups vegetable broth
• 1cup water
• 2tablespoons minced fresh mint leaves
• 2tablespoons minced fresh chives
• 1/2teaspoon finely grated zest plus 2 tablespoons juice from 1 lemon
• 6tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
•   Table salt
• 1/4teaspoon red pepper flakes
• 1pound campanelle
• 1cup dry white wine
• 1ounce grated Parmesan cheese (about 1/2 cup), plus extra for serving
•   Ground black pepper

Instructions

• 1. Place dark green leek trimmings, asparagus trimmings, 1 cup peas, 2 teaspoons garlic, vegetable broth, and water in large saucepan. Bring to simmer over high heat, then lower heat to medium-low and gently simmer 10 minutes. While broth simmers, combine mint, chives, and lemon zest in small bowl; set aside.
• 2. Strain broth through fine-mesh strainer into 8-cup measuring cup, pressing on solids to extract as much liquid as possible (you should have 5 cups broth; add water as needed to measure 5 cups). Discard solids and return broth to saucepan. Cover and keep warm over low heat.
• 3. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in Dutch oven over medium heat until shimmering. Add sliced leeks and pinch salt; cook, covered, stirring occasionally, until leeks begin to brown, about 5 minutes. Add asparagus pieces and cook until crisp-tender, 4 to 6 minutes. Add remaining 2 teaspoons garlic and pepper flakes; cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add remaining cup peas and continue to cook 1 minute. Transfer vegetables to plate and set aside. Wipe out pot.
• 4. Heat remaining 4 tablespoons oil in now-empty Dutch oven over medium heat until shimmering. Add pasta and cook, stirring frequently, until just beginning to brown, about 5 minutes. Add wine and cook, stirring constantly, until absorbed, about 2 minutes.
• 5. When wine is fully absorbed, add hot broth. Increase heat to medium-high and bring to boil. Cook, stirring frequently, until most of liquid is absorbed and pasta is al dente, 8 to 10 minutes.
• 6. Remove pot from heat, stir in lemon juice, Parmesan, half of herb mixture, and vegetables. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve immediately, passing Parmesan cheese and remaining herb mixture separately.

Technique

• For Better Flavor, Cook Pasta Like Risotto

  To deepen the overall flavor of our Spring Vegetable Pasta and add body to the sauce, we cooked the pasta like rice.
  
• 1. TOAST PASTA Sautéing the raw pasta in oil, as you would raw rice for risotto, gives it a golden brown color and nutty, rich flavor.
  
• 2. ADD WINE A cup of white wine introduced to the pot gets absorbed by the pasta, further contributing to the dish's flavor.
  
• 3. ADD BROTH Instead of using water, we boil the pasta in vegetable broth (simmered first with vegetable peelings to concentrate its flavor).
  
• 4. COOK UNTIL CREAMY As the pasta cooks, it gets coated in the creamy, starch-thickened broth. No need to add any actual cream.